How to use PR-10,000
Overview
PR-10,000 is our concentrated phosphate remover. This procedure covers different ways it can be used in your swimming pool, proper dosing instructions, and frequently asked questions (FAQs).
Related: How to Implement the Orenda Program
You may need:
-
- Plastic measuring cup (for liquids)
- Commercial spray bottle (optional)
- Phosphate test kit (optional)
PR-10,000 strength/removal rate
You will find PR-10,000 is significantly more concentrated than most phosphate removers in the swimming pool industry, and that is by design. It is meant to be used in small, concentrated doses. This means you should either use a measuring cup or a spray bottle so that you know how much volume each spray is. For normal use, our phosphate removal rates are as follows:
|
Phosphate level (ppb) |
PR-10,000 dose (per 10,000 gallons) |
| 0 - 500 ppb | 2 fl.oz. (59 mL) |
| 500 - 1000 ppb | 4 fl.oz. (118 mL) |
| 1000 - 2000 ppb | 8 fl.oz. (237 mL) |
| 2000+ ppb | 10 fl.oz. (473 mL) |
| The "Orenda Bomb" | 24-32 fl.oz. (710-946 mL) |
| Green Pool Cleanup | 32 fl.oz. (946 mL) |
IMPORTANT NOTE: We recommend not exceeding 8 fl. oz. per 10,000 gallons (236.6 mL per 38,000 L) in a single treatment unless you are returning the next day to vacuum the fallout and clean the filter.
The goal for phosphate removal is to have less than 500 ppb in your water. According to the research we have done, 500 ppb seems to be a reasonable threshold to strive for before phosphates begin to become a nuisance. Obviously, the lower the better, but zero is unrealistic to maintain every day. We consider over 1000 ppb to be "high", and over 2000 ppb very high. Be aware of the three main sources of phosphates in pools:
- phosphates in your tap water,
- phosphates from the environment around the pool, and
- phosphate-based chemicals like sequestering agents.
You can test for phosphates to find out how much to remove, though we have found phosphate test kits have limits and can sometimes be inaccurate. For instance, if your phosphate level is above the test kit's range, dilution with phosphate-free distilled water is necessary for an accurate reading. But who has time for that? Another limiting factor is the fact that phosphate test kits usually only measure orthophosphates, not any of the other types of phosphates. A third limiting factor is if algae are present in the water, phosphate readings will be lower than they actually are. Even totally green pools can show zero phosphates on a test kit because the phosphates are contained within the algae itself.
There are plenty of limiting factors for phosphate test kits. So we found a workaround.
The Red Cap Test
Want to know for sure if phosphates are present in your pool? Add just a cap full of PR-10,000 into your pool in one spot. Count to 30 seconds. If the cloud grows larger than a basketball, in our opinion, the phosphates are worth treating. The larger the cloud, the higher your phosphates. Then again, if you barely have a cloud at all, that's great news, because it means your phosphate levels are very low.
PR-10,000 reacts on contact with all types of phosphates, so even if your test kit was inaccurate, PR-10,000 will still react if phosphates are present. This is not a way to measure phosphate levels; it is only a way to know if you have them present in your water. It also gives you a good idea of whether or not you have enough to justify a treatment. We jokingly say the red cap test is "highly scientific" because it is obviously not. But it IS reliable.
Where and how to pour PR-10,000 into a pool
PR-10,000 should be added directly to the water, either around the perimeter, or broadcast across the surface. We recommend against adding it directly into a skimmer or gutter. The water will cloud up in seconds if phosphates are present. The bigger the cloud, the more phosphates in the water.
Pro tips
When purging a pool, use PR-10,000 in tandem with either CV-600 or CV-700 enzymes. CV-600 and CV-700 work well together with PR-10,000. The enzymes help clear the water faster by removing non-living organics and oils. Especially with heavier organic loads, PR-10,000 dust can stay suspended for days (instead of hours) because the oils and organics stick to the dust, making it harder to sink (oils float; dust and dirt fall) to the floor for vacuuming, or main drain for filtering. With enzymes, however, those oils are broken down and release the dust for a much faster clearing of the pool.
To minimize the cloudiness–or at least spread it out for faster filtration–broadcast PR-10,000 around the pool surface. Instead of pouring the entire dose in one single spot, spreading it around allows for more water to be treated faster. More dispersed phosphate precipitation means faster filtration and faster clearing of the pool. What does not get filtered out will fall to the floor and need to be vacuumed.
Use PR-10,000 as needed. If you know your source water contains phosphates, perhaps monthly (or even weekly) treatments make sense. Some customers prefer to add a strong dose at the beginning and end of the season only. The choice is yours.
Special doses for PR-10,000
PR-10,000 is part of many Orenda procedures. Below is a table showing PR-10,000 doses for those procedures:
| Process | Dose (fl. oz. per 10,000 gallons) |
| Normal max dose | 8 fl. oz. (236.6 mL) |
| Green pool cleanup | 32 fl. oz. (946.4 mL) |
| Sand filter purge | 8 fl. oz. (236.6 mL)* |
| "The Orenda Bomb" | 24-32 fl. oz. (710-946 mL) |
| Superchlorination | 16 fl. oz. (473.1 mL) |
*Filter purge dose is based on a standard commercial pool filter. See procedure for dosing details.
As mentioned earlier, if you're not able to come back to the pool the next day, do not exceed 8 fl. oz. per 10,000 gallons in a single treatment, because the precipitation can overwhelm your filter. These procedures, however, are special cases, and a follow-up visit is part of it anyway.
PR-10,000 FAQs
Why does PR-10,000 cloud the water?
The process of removing phosphates from water requires changing the state of the phosphate molecule into a solid, which precipitates out of solution. This precipitate (white dust) can be vacuumed or filtered out. Until the precipitate falls to the bottom or gets filtered out, it first presents itself as white clouding in the pool.
How long until it is safe to swim after using PR-10,000?
PR-10,000 is certified to NSF/ANSI Standard 50. That means when used as directed, PR-10,000 is nontoxic and nonhazardous in your water. That being said, from a safety perspective, water clarity matters. We recommend waiting until you can clearly see the main drain at the bottom of the pool before anyone can swim.
Does PR-10,000 leave behind a residual?
No. PR-10,000 reacts on contact with phosphates, and once that reaction is complete, all that is left is an inert precipitate that looks like a fine white powder. It clouds up in the water initially but then falls out of solution to be filtered or vacuumed out.
How does PR-10,000 compare to CV-700?
PR-10,000 is a concentrated phosphate remover, whereas CV-700 is primarily an enzyme with a phosphate remover blended in. The phosphate remover in CV-700 is not PR-10,000. So in terms of phosphate removal, PR-10,000 is much stronger by volume.
What else can PR-10,000 be used for?
We have used PR-10,000 to help clean up calcification in commercial filters, as well as helping to clean stubborn 'gunk' on tile lines and other pool surfaces. It is not a tile cleaner, but it can cut through scum pretty well. We also use PR-10,000 alongside CV-600 or CV-700 enzymes for certain procedures; namely the sand filter purge. Here are two videos:
Can PR-10,000 be used with a chlorine shock?
Yes, in fact, PR-10,000 works with chlorine quite well. We recommend using it immediately after a chlorine shock in certain procedures, such as the green pool cleanup, the 'Orenda Bomb', and super-chlorination.
Can PR-10,000 be used in saltwater pools?
Yes.
Can PR-10,000 be used in vinyl liner pools and fiberglass pools?
Yes.